Showing posts with label iDuino. Show all posts
Showing posts with label iDuino. Show all posts

Monday, February 14, 2011

Spreadsheet Edits

I've made some changes to my Arduino-compatible boards spreadsheet lately: I added a few boards, removed boards which are no longer available, and made some general changes.

Added:
  • Stripduino by TinkerAct! has a small SMD area for its Arduino-compatible core, with IO pins in a line next to a stripboard area for on-board prototyping. There was an initial issue with the name of the board, but it seems straightened out now, and the design is lovely-- nothing extraneous. It reminds me of one of my favorite boards, Prototino by Spikenzie Labs.
  • "Drum Kit - Kit AI" by SpikenzieLabs, a "maybe not" Arduino-compatible board for creating a MIDI 6-pad drum kit using piezo sensors stuck to just about anything.
  • rEDI Education Board by Rogue Robotics is a prototyping board with buttons, LED's, a piezo speaker and volume knob, real time clock, high-powered 5V voltage regulator, servo headers, and a breadboard area. Also "maybe not" Arduino-compatible since it runs an ATmega644P, so it needs a custom bootloader.
Removed:
  • A bunch of boards by Fundamental Logic which apparently stopped accepting orders in May of 2010. That makes me sad since they offered some interesting boards, but thankfully the designs are still online for reference. My favorites: iDuino, StickDuino, MPGuino.
  • Modified Pico was a very compact, breadboard-friendly Duemilanove-compatible board. Thankfully details (including design files) are still available.
  • Rampage Robot Base V4 was an Arduino-powered robot platform with headers for a shield. Looks like its creator has moved on to more complex microcontrollers.
  • Zuccherino by Evil Mad Scientist Laboratories was to be "a low-cost, scalable, and extremely versatile open-source motion control platform," but the project has not had an update in a while. I look forward to more from this project.
  • "Flexi" was an inexpensive breadboard-friendly clone, not sure what happened but the domain now hosts a useless/spammy link page.
Changes:
  • I just added a "By" column for designer, author or manufacturer. I'd like it to be simply "Author," but some companies [cough] mostly sell other peoples' designs, so I'm not sure whom to credit.
  • I'd like to add more information about when boards were edited or checked, but wading through the revision history in Google Docs is a pain. A few people have suggested this and I like the idea, but I can't figure out how to track down the details.
  • I updated a bunch of boards' links, prices, and chip; a few use ATmega328s but used to be ATmega168s.
As always, please email me with any suggestions or corrections!

Saturday, November 28, 2009

Minimal Arduino?

I prefer breadboard-friendly Arduino-compatible boards like Boarduino and iDuino, but I keep wanting functionality people have built into shields like Adafruit's Motor Shield and Batsocks' TellyMate Shield.

All I want in an Arduino:
  • ATmega328
  • FTDI programming header
  • Arduino "form factor" with odd D7/D8 spacing and standoff holes
Sorting my Arduino-compatible board spreadsheet first by price, then by form factor, it seems the lowest price for a shield-compatible board is ~$17 for a serial Freeduino, compared to ~$10 for a Dorkboard, though the latter comes with an ATmega168, not a 328.

Necessary items:
  • microcontroller: ATmega328, socket, capacitor
  • clock: oscillator and 2 caps, or a resonator
  • reset: 90-degree (side) button, 10K resistor
  • FTDI cable interface: 6-pin header, capacitor
  • Power: Barrel connector, 2-pin header
Extra interface header pin pads:
  • icsp (2x3)
  • i2c (4)
  • spi (6) (nah)
Simple extras, parts not provided:
  • Power indicator: LED, 1K resistor
  • TX/RX indicators: 2 more LEDs, 2 more 1K resistors
  • Power regulation: 7805, 2 capacitors, jumper
  • Diode to prevent inverted power hookup
I'm traveling for the next month so this will be a fun little layout project, perhaps as a way to learn kicad (as opposed to EAGLE, which I currently use) and to explore board house pricing and specs. The goal is to be able to produce a $10 kit (cost), which may be possible given how many goodies SparkFun includes in their $20 Arduino Pro 328.


Update 12/29: I got a single-sided board laid out with just four jumpers, and I'll tear it up and redo it with the programming header where I want it, jumping TX and RX across the board. The files for the "Severino" single-sided board helped me figure out the routing.

Tuesday, June 16, 2009

LCD difficulties

After putting together a schematic in EAGLE for the shower control circuit, I tinkered a bit trying to get a scrounged Powertip PC1602-G character LCD working. Serial LCDs from SparkFun are easy to use but expensive, in addition to hogging the serial port and being available only in 16x2 and 20x4; I'd like to be able to use cheapo 8x2 or other displays.

I soldered on a pin header and got to breadboarding it with an iDuino, but quickly discovered that the tutorials are pretty haphazard, and I wasn't able to get any output using the LiquidCrystal library in spite of quadruple-checking my schematic and breadboard connections.

I tried Limor's tutorial but got no result, and I think editing the library to set the pins is an odd (wrong?) way for a library to work. I even used the exact same pins-- no dice. I wonder if the scrounged LCDs I'm using have custom commands that makes them incompatible with the library-- I need to try a different LCD, and maybe use Massimo's raw example.

Update: In a comment, Al asked if the LCDs I was trying weren't HD44780-compatible at all and... oops, thats the problem! I got it working fine with an LCD scrounged from an old Brady Labelmaker, which contains an actual Toshiba HD44780.

Thursday, May 14, 2009

Click for A, Press and Hold for B

I planned to add a time setting mode to the alarm clock later, as gravy-- thought I wouldn't need one since the clock chip keeps time-- but with the board not yet built, I keep accidentally disconnecting the DS1307's battery and needing to reset it with a special sketch.

That's a pain, so I'm adding it to the PPAC program next, and to keep the interface simple-- jog/shuttle and a button-- a press and hold event seems appropriate for switching into an otherwise hidden mode, like shutting down a MacBook by holding down the button instead of just clicking it.

Despite a few posted examples on debouncing a button press (explicitly or with a library), I couldn't find any press+hold examples, so I took a stab at it and got a test sketch working pretty quickly with a button and two indicator LEDs. The code is posted below, as a comment.

Tuesday, March 24, 2009

Broken?

After trying to stuff the intervalometer circuit into a jar a few days ago, it just hasn't worked right. LCD goes blank in trigger and shoot modes, and it doesn't trigger the camera, though the serial output is right. The backlight "peek" function has stopped working too.

Using the protoshield on my "proper" Arduino has been too limiting space-wise anyway-- time to transfer to a bigger breadboard with an Boarduino or iDuino to sort things out and finalize the controls and ports in Eagle, plus I'll have room to mess with audio amplifier circuits and FZ20 vs. EOS remotes.

Had an idea about an Arduino variant this morning (in the shower of course) but wonder if something like it has been made already... is there a comprehensive list of *duinos anywhere?